Avoided, underrated or just plain forgotten, Belfast is a city that’s been fighting a bad reputation for half a century. A visit today, however, is an eye-opening experience in the best possible way. Belfast has been coming into its own in the past few years, developing a vibrant restaurant scene, award-winning architecture – the Royal Institute of British Architects gave the MAC, a sleek arts venue, a National Award in 2013 – and a new cosmopolitanism, although fried breakfasts and a heightened awareness of sectarian conflict remain an integral part of most residents’ days. The friendliness of the people is what’s most appealing in this small, walkable city, from smiling servers to...
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